Here I was trying to match the lab scan but without that reference it might have come out a bit different. I'd say it a fairly easy process once you get the hang of it but also fairly subjective. Here is the same image scanned with a D7200 and a Nikon ES-1 slide copier and inverted with RawTherapee:īoth images were brought into GIMP just for resizing and converting to JPEG. I don't know much about what it's doing but using this tool and then messing around with color balance etc. As of version 5.7 or so it has a "Film Negative" tool. I've been playing around with RawTherapee (free and open source and available on Linux, Windows, and MacOS) for a couple of days. The OP's request for a "program-agnostic" way to deal with color negative images is understandable but a bit naive and simplistic. (The actual "Invert" command is the same in all programs as far as I know. Invert the image to a positive and perform all other color balancing and correction. Set the Layer Kind to "Divide." The mask will be gone.ĥ. Sample the mask color at its most intense - along the edge of a frame or between frames, with the eyedropper tool.ģ. Starting ideally with a true 16 bit scan because the needed color adjustments in processing a color negative image can cause posterization of an 8 bit image. Other programs have similar ability, but I don't have the equivalent steps for all other image editors. The following is the process in Photoshop. To remove the mask digitally involves some digital math since the analog process isn't present. The mask is "automatically" removed in the printing due to the analog interaction between the film and the paper. When color negative film was originally created, it was part of a two part system that always included being printed to color printing paper. The mask is generated in the emulsion during processing to compensate for blue sensitivity deficiencies in color printing paper. It's at its very strongest in the completely unexposed edges of the film and areas between frames. The orange color is only in the deep shadows and dark mid-tones. a mask, which means that the orange color isn't everywhere in the image such as a "tint" or color cast. ![]() Some scanning software has profiles for different film stocks, but I have no experience with those.Īs has been discussed in numerous other places as well as several threads here, removing the orange mask in a film negative cannot be done correctly by applying a global adjustment such as the Curves tool (found in just about every image editing program). Walk away from the screen for an hour, to reset your color judgment, and come back for more tweaks.Remove/desaturate yellow and blue from the image manually using a curve or slider for each color.Set your white balance using the space between the (uninverted) negatives, or invert and then set your white balance using a white object (a color checker would be great) in the frame or at least in a similar shot.I'm not familiar with Affinity, but my basic sequence is to: PS It will also invert images, using 'Negative' It has a curves function, when you can pull up the lowest left point and pull down the top right point. What do we use to invert negatives? So far I only found negfix8 but haven't tried it yet. What I am interested in, is a universal and platform-agnostic sequence of steps to remove yellow/magenta mask which is present in negatives, so I can transform these steps to Affinity photo (or any other Photoshop alternative such as GIMP, etc).Īgain, there are people who buy instead of renting, so we're not interested in any of Adobe products (because they replaced them with subscriptions). This topic keeps popping up, and every time people revert to Photoshop/Lightroom plugins (posting quite unflattering samples to boot).
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